Julia Child Hash Browns Recipe

Julia Child Hash Browns (Grated Potato Galettes) are crispy, lacy potato pancakes that shatter at the edges and stay tender inside. Julia writes in The Way to Cook (page 324): “One of the crispest and most successful of potato pancakes, to my mind, is made with grated cooked potatoes.”

Julia learned this technique from La Tulipe restaurant in New York. Chef Sally Darr’s sous-chef Sara Moulton shared the secret: baking potatoes, boiled slightly underdone, then refrigerated until thoroughly cold before grating. Julia never called them “hash browns,” but that’s exactly what these are – her elegant French take on the American diner classic.

What makes Julia’s hash browns special? She par-cooks baking potatoes the day before, chills them, then grates and sautés them in clarified butter. The result is crispier and more refined than any diner hash brown you’ve ever had.

Why You’ll Love This Recipe

• Impossibly crispy: The edges get lacy and shatteringly crisp while the center stays tender.
• Make-ahead friendly: Boil the potatoes a day ahead. The morning-of work takes just minutes.
• Flippable pancakes: Unlike loose hash browns, these hold together so you can flip them like a pancake.
• Restaurant quality at home: This is the actual technique from La Tulipe restaurant in New York.
• Versatile size: Make individual 5-inch galettes or one large pancake for the table.

Julia Child Hash Browns Ingredients

From The Way to Cook by Julia Child, Pages 324-325. Makes 6 galettes about 5 inches across.

• 2-3 large baking potatoes (about 12 oz each)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• ½ cup clarified butter (or olive oil)

Equipment:

• Hand grater with large holes (¼ inch)
• No-stick frying pan or seasoned iron pan, 5-5½ inch bottom diameter

Why baking potatoes? The starch in baking potatoes holds the grated pieces together so you can flip the galettes. Waxy potatoes won’t work.

Why clarified butter? It doesn’t burn at high heat like regular butter. You need high heat for that crispy crust.

How To Make Julia Child Hash Browns

1. Cook the Potatoes (Day Before): Scrub the potatoes under hot water. Steam for 12-15 minutes until almost but not quite cooked – a knife should just penetrate. The center should NOT be floury. If there’s a raw core, steam 2-3 minutes more. Let cool uncovered, then refrigerate until thoroughly cold.
2. Grate the Cold Potatoes: Peel the cold potatoes and rub through the large holes of a hand grater onto a baking sheet. Toss lightly with salt and pepper. Leave them loosely massed.
3. Heat the Pan: Film a frying pan with ⅛ inch of clarified butter or oil. Heat until hot.
4. Form and Sauté: Spread ½ to ¾ cup of grated potato into the pan (amount depends on how thick you want them). Sauté over moderate heat for 4-5 minutes, pressing the potatoes together lightly with a spatula, until the bottom is crusted and golden brown.
5. Flip and Finish: Flip the galette and sauté a few minutes more to brown the other side. Transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm while finishing the rest.

Recipe Tips

• Par-cook the potatoes, don’t fully cook them. Julia is specific: slightly underdone potatoes have enough starch to hold together when sautéed. Fully cooked potatoes fall apart.
• Cold potatoes are essential. They must be thoroughly cold before grating, or they’ll turn to mush.
• Use a hand grater, not a food processor. Julia notes the processor “produces too many small shards.” The hand grater gives the right texture.
• Press lightly while cooking. This helps the potatoes stick together and form a crust.
• Keep warm properly. Set finished galettes on a baking sheet in a 200°F oven while you make the rest.

Recipe Variations

One Large Hash Brown: Make a single large galette in a 10-12 inch pan. If you don’t want to flip it, brown the top under the broiler instead.

With Cheese: After lightly browning the top under the broiler, sprinkle with grated Swiss cheese and brown again.

Thinner or Thicker: Use less potato (½ cup) for thin, lacy, crêpe-like galettes. Use more (¾ cup) for thicker, more substantial pancakes.

What To Serve With Hash Browns

These hash browns pair with:

• Eggs – fried, poached, or scrambled. Classic breakfast.
• Half a game hen – Julia suggests placing it right on top.
• A piece of duck – elegant brunch or dinner.
• Steak and eggs – Sunday morning indulgence.
• As a base for anything – think of them as an edible plate.

Make-Ahead Tips

The Day Before:

• Boil potatoes until almost done
• Cool uncovered, then refrigerate

Day Of:

• Grate cold potatoes
• Sauté and serve

Holding Cooked Galettes: Julia says: “The galettes may be sautéed somewhat ahead. Set aside uncovered, at room temperature. Reheat briefly in a 425°F oven.”

How To Store

• Cooked Potatoes (for grating): Refrigerate up to 2 days before grating and sautéing.
• Finished Galettes: Best served immediately. Can be reheated in a 425°F oven for 3-5 minutes.
• Freezer: Not recommended. They lose their crispy texture.

Nutrition Facts

Per serving (1 galette, serves 6):

• Calories: 220 kcal
• Protein: 3g
• Total Fat: 12g
• Saturated Fat: 7g
• Carbohydrates: 26g
• Fiber: 2g
• Sugar: 1g
• Sodium: 180mg
• Cholesterol: 30mg

FAQs

Source: The Way to Cook by Julia Child, Pages 324-325

– Claire